Dessous Paris

supplier purchase order

Oeko-Tex certificate

Brand statement

Brand website

Reduction of production waste

Recycled materials that repurpose waste

Upcycled materials that repurpose waste

Reduction of unsold goods

Recovery of unsold goods

Limited collection frequency

Repair service

Warranty service

Reduction of CO2 emissions

Use of air transport prohibited

Recycled materials reducing carbon impact

Upcycled materials reducing carbon impact

Use of renewable energy

Suppliers managing their energy consumption

Suppliers managing their water consumption

Use of sandblasting prohibited

Natural materials that limit water pollution

Organic materials that limit water pollution

Suppliers managing their water pollution

Use of chrome tanning prohibited

Use of renewable resources

Recycled materials that limit depletion of resources

Upcycled materials that limit depletion of resources

By knowing its suppliers, the brand is able to control their practices and thus takes its responsibilities towards them.

Knowledge of suppliers

By working directly with its suppliers, i.e. without intermediaries, the brand has a transparent view of the working conditions in these factories.

Direct working relationships with suppliers

By committing to a minimum two-year contract with its suppliers, the brand gives them financial visibility and the ability to project themselves.

Long-term contracts with suppliers

Publication of list of suppliers

At all stages of the production chain, the working conditions are often very difficult for the workers. This is why it is important to control factories in order to verify their working conditions: forced labor, minimum age, measures against discrimination, workers’ safety. These controls, also called audits, can be carried out by external organizations or firms. They are thus a good guarantee that the minimum rights of workers are respected.

Audits of suppliers on labor-related criteria

Publication of audit results

Thanks to an anonymous alert and reporting system, workers can anonymously report problems in the factories.

Alert system at suppliers' worksites

No animal material

No material causing animal slaughter

No use of animal material

Use of apparel fabric end-of-rolls

Publication of the restricted substances list

Use of alkylphenols prohibited

Use of perfluorocarbons prohibited

Use of phthalates prohibited

Use of chromium VI prohibited

Use of halogenated flame retardants prohibited

Some countries have lower social risks due to stricter regulations.

Guarantees of origin

Toxicity tests on components

Toxicity tests on finished products

Throughout the entire supply chain, workers may be exposed to numerous chemical substances or be required to manipulate them. Therefore, it is important to ensure that the conditions of use of these substances are respected and that they do not present risks to workers.

Audits of suppliers on toxicity criteria

Publication of toxicity audit results

Compliance with legal minimum wage for workers

Underwear

Sewing

Finishing

Weaving-Knitting

The raw material production stage is the stage during which the fibers are produced, either by growing plants: natural plant fibers and artificial fibres, or by breeding: natural animal fibres, or by chemical processes: synthetics.

Raw material

The spinning stage is the stage during which the raw material is transformed into yarn.

Spinning

The weaving-knitting stage is the stage during which the yarn is transformed into fabric. There are two types of fabrics: - the fabric which consists in assembling threads in a regular way, arranged in two series, by crossing them perpendicularly (ex: jeans) - the knitting which consists in making loops with the thread (ex: sweater)

The finishing step is the step during which the yarns are dyed. This step also allows to "print" patterns on the fabric.

The sewing stage is the stage during which the fabric is cut and then assembled to give birth to the final garment.

Checks and controls on the garment

Substances used

In addition

Controversial market

No animal slaughter

Limitation of suffering

Relationships with partners

Risk management

Consideration of workers' living conditions

Waste

Climate change

Water

Fossil resources

These controversial industries are responsible for the death of millions of animals every year in order to profit from the trade of their skins. We consider “exotic” all leathers that cannot be by-products of food (shark, snake, lizard, crocodile). The animals used for their furs are: minks, chinchillas, foxes, rabbits, and in some countries, cats and dogs.

The brand does not use any animal material.

It avoids the suffering of animals related to breeding and sometimes the slaughter of the animals.

This avoids encouraging and supporting the breeding and slaughter of many animals.

The brand does not use animal materials that cause the slaughter of animals.

Halogenated or brominated flame retardants are chemicals used in the textile industry to prevent the formation of flames when garments come into contact with heat. Studies have shown that halogenated flame retardants affect the endocrine system and can induce changes in neurodevelopment and lipid metabolism.

Chromium is a chemical used in the textile industry for tanning leather and dyeing wool and silk. Chromium VI can form as a result of the use of chromium III by oxidation. Unlike other chromium derivatives, studies have shown carcinogenic effects of chromium VI on the respiratory tract when inhaled.

Phthalates are chemical substances used in the textile industry to produced a relief effect. Studies have shown that the toxicity of phthalates is of great concern because they can interfere with the development of the testicles at an early age. The phthalates DEHP and DBP are classified as “toxic for reproduction” in Europe.

Perfluorinated compounds are used to make a textile stain- or water-repellent. Studies have shown that they affect the liver and act as endocrine disruptors, altering growth levels and sex hormones.

Alkylphenols are chemicals used in the textile industry for cleaning and dyeing. Studies have shown the toxicological potential of alkylphenols mainly as endocrine disruptors in animals as well as humans.

By publishing the restricted substances list, the brand informs the consumer about substances that can be found in their garments. This is a guarantee of transparency.

Publication of list of restricted substances

%% of suppliers in the sewing process are located in countries with low labor-related risks.

%% of suppliers in the finishing process are located in countries with low labor-related risks.

Weaving/knitting

%% of suppliers in the weaving and knitting process are located in countries with low labor-related risks.

%% of suppliers in the spinning process are located in countries with low labor-related risks.

Raw materials

%% of suppliers in the raw material production process are located in countries with low labor-related risks.

%% of sewing suppliers work directly with the brand.

By publishing the list of its suppliers, the brand demonstrates transparency to its consumers. This is also proof of its knowledge of its production chain.

The brand does not publish the list of its suppliers.

At the end of the audits, the team responsible for conducting them completes a report to present the results and its observations. Publication of these results is a guarantee of transparency for the brand.

%% of sewing suppliers are known to the brand.

An unknown percentage of finishing suppliers is known to the brand.

An unknown percentage of weaving and knitting suppliers is known to the brand.

Accessories

An unknown percentage of accessory suppliers is known to the brand. Accessories are all non-textile objects used in the production of garments. For example: zippers, buttons, rivets, snaps, fly closures...

The brand has not implemented an alert system with its sewing suppliers.

The brand has not implemented an alert system with its finishing suppliers.

The brand has not implemented an alert system with its weaving and knitting suppliers.

The brand has not implemented an alert system with its spinning suppliers.

The brand has not implemented an alert system for its raw material suppliers.

The sewing process requires the work of many people. Machines do not replace human precision and experienced craftsmanship.

Brand audit:
     %% of the brand's sewing suppliers are audited on labor-related criteria by an internal brand team.

During the finishing process, workers may be exposed to large quantities of chemicals.

Brand audit:
     %% of the brand's finishing suppliers are audited on labor-related criteria by an internal brand team.

Brand audit:
     %% of the brand's weaving and knitting suppliers are audited on labor-related criteria by an internal brand team.

Brand audit:
     %% of the brand's spinning suppliers are audited on labor-related criteria by an internal brand team.

The cultivation of cotton poses many labor-related problems, such as forced labor and low wages.

Brand audit:
     %% of the brand's raw material suppliers are audited on labor-related criteria by an internal team.

Every year the textile industry emits 1.2 billion tons of greenhouse gases, which is about 2% of global emissions. It is therefore important for brands to take action to reduce their emissions.

CO2 emissions

The brand has implemented a policy to reduce its carbon emissions.

The technique of manual or mechanical sandblasting is very water-intensive. During the sandblasting process, sand is projected at high pressure using forced air guns.

The brand does not use denim. Consequently, it does not use the technique of manual or mechanical sandblasting.

Production off-cuts result from cutting different pattern pieces from fabric, which generates a large amount of textile waste. Indeed, 20 to 30% of fabric is lost during the cutting process. To limit the quantity of cutting waste, it is possible to optimize cutting techniques or to repurpose production off-cuts.

An unknown percentage of garments contains finished fabrics that are labeled OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100.
     The OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 label guarantees that labeled finished fabrics are produced by finishing suppliers who are audited on toxicity criteria.

The brand practices upcycling. It recovers unused fabric to repurpose it into new garments. It is therefore more difficult to control the substances used and present on the fabric. Apparel fabrics can undergo various chemical treatments during their production. They can represent a health risk for consumers.

%% of the brand's garments are produced from apparel fabric end-of-rolls.

Chrome tanning uses many substances that are very harmful to workers. Tanning is an operation that transforms the dermis of the animal's skin into a rot-proof substance.

Prohibition of chrome tanning

The brand does not use leather. Consequently, it does not use chrome tanning.

During the sandblasting process, sand is blasted at high pressure with forced-air guns. Workers who perform this process are exposed to silica dust that enters their bodies through their ears, noses and mouths. They can develop a disease called silicosis (an incurable lung disease) that can develop into cancer.

The brand does not guarantee that workers in its sewing factories are paid the legal minimum wage.

The brand does not guarantee that workers in its finishing factories are paid the legal minimum wage.

The brand does not guarantee that workers in its weaving and knitting factories are paid the legal minimum wage.

The brand does not guarantee that workers in its spinning factories are paid the legal minimum wage.

The brand does not guarantee that workers in its raw material factories are paid the legal minimum wage.

The brand has contractual relationships of at least two years with %% of sewing suppliers.

The percentage of finishing suppliers with whom the brand has contractual relationships of at least two years is unknown.

The brand has contractual relationships of at least two years with %% of weaving and knitting suppliers.

The brand has contractual relationships of at least two years with %% of spinning suppliers.

The brand has contractual relationships of more than two years with %% of raw material suppliers.

Upcycling consists of repurposing used garments and fabrics to transform them into new pieces. This reduces the production of virgin materials and thus limits use of the Earth's fossil resources like petroleum oil.

An unknown percentage of the brand's garments is produced from upcycled materials.

The use of recycled materials reduces the production of virgin materials. Recycled materials come from different sources of waste such as fabric scraps, used clothing, plastic bottles, residual fibers, etc. These materials, already produced and repurposed, limit use of the Earth's fossil resources like petroleum oil.

%% of the brand's garments are produced from recycled materials.

70% of fibers produced in the world are synthetic, so derived from petroleum oil, a limited fossil resource. By opting for natural materials, the brand limits use of this resource.

%% of the brand's garments are produced from natural materials; the rest is produced from synthetic materials.

During the sewing process, fabric is cut and assembled to create the final garment, which requires little energy compared to the other stages.

During the finishing process, fabric is treated chemically or mechanically to give it its characteristics: color, motif, etc. This process requires significant electricity and especially heat. Most of the energy required is produced by non-renewable sources (coal, gas...).

Transformation of yarn into fabric requires significant energy. This energy is mostly produced by non-renewable sources (coal, gas...).

During the spinning process, the raw material is transformed into yarn, which requires significant energy. Most of the energy required is produced by non-renewable sources (coal, gas...).

The production of raw materials usually requires a large amount of energy and heat, especially for synthetic fibers.

Renewable energies are inexhaustible energies. They contribute to the fight against the greenhouse effect and CO2 emissions into the atmosphere.

%% of renewable energy is used by the brand to power its offices, warehouses and stores.

Upcycling consists of repurposing used garments and fabrics to transform them into new pieces, without the production of new material or the stages of spinning, weaving, knitting and finishing that make up the production process. The carbon impact is therefore lower than that of virgin and recycled materials.

The carbon impact of recycled materials is lower than that of virgin materials. Recycled materials come from different sources of waste (fabric scraps, used clothing, plastic bottles, residual fibers...) and therefore limit the production of virgin materials with a high carbon impact. This high carbon impact is the result of agricultural and breeding methods that use large surfaces of land and significant quantities of water, as well as massive use of chemical products and/or petroleum oil for the production of artificial and synthetic fibers.

Air transport is the most polluting mode of transport in terms of CO2 emissions per weight transported. According to the French Ministry of the Environment, a cargo ship emits between 10 and 32.5g of CO2/ton/kilometer vs. 2200g for an airplane.

The brand does not prohibit air transportation of its products.

Chromium is a toxic heavy metal that can be released into wastewater after the tanning process. Tanning is an operation that transforms the dermis of the animal's skin into a rot-proof substance.

During sewing, the fabric is cut and assembled to create the final garment, a process that causes little water pollution.

During the finishing process, the fabric is treated chemically or mechanically to give it its characteristics: color, motifs, etc. This stage involves many processes and a large quantity of chemicals. These substances are found in factory wastewater. The substances used in the previous stages are also found in the wastewater and must be eliminated before any treatment.

During this process, the yarn is transformed into fabric, and yarns are often coated with chemicals to facilitate the transition from yarn to fabric. These chemicals can then end up in the wastewater of finishing plants.

During the spinning process, the raw material is transformed into yarn. Use of mineral oils is necessary for winding the yarn onto spools. These oils can contain traces of products that are very harmful to health and the environment. Residues of these oils can end up in the wastewater of finishing plants.

The manufacturing processes of synthetic and artificial materials require a large amount of chemical solvents. The cultivation of natural fibers, especially cotton, also requires use of large quantities of fertilizers and pesticides, all of which contribute to the pollution of groundwater and waterways.

Natural materials, especially cotton, require a lot of fertilizers and pesticides. When used in excess, these chemicals leach into the water table and waterways, causing algae blooms and harming other aquatic life. Organic agriculture is a production method employing cultivation and breeding practices that respect the balance of natural habitats. It prohibits use of synthetic chemicals and GMOs and limits the use of agricultural inputs.

%% of the brand's garments are produced from organically grown materials.

With each wash, synthetic materials release microparticles of plastic that end up in the ocean. This represents 500,000 tons of microparticles released into the oceans each year, the equivalent of 50 billion plastic bottles.

%% of the brand's garments are produced solely from natural materials; the rest of the garments contain at least one synthetic material.

During the sewing process, fabric is cut and assembled into the final garment, a process that uses little water.

During the finishing process, the fabric is treated chemically or mechanically to give it its characteristics: color, motifs, etc. This process consumes a lot of water; it is responsible for 27% of freshwater consumption in the textile industry. A large majority of finishing processes require the use of freshwater.

During the weaving or knitting process, the yarn is processed into fabric, which requires little water.

During the spinning process, the raw material is transformed into yarn, a process that consumes a lot of water. It is responsible for 21% of freshwater consumption in the textile industry. Some spinning processes are called "wet", meaning that they require the use of large quantities of water.

The production of raw materials consumes a lot of water. It is responsible for 31% of freshwater consumption in the textile industry, in particular in the cultivation of cotton, which is very water-intensive.

A garment guarantee proves that a brand has confidence in the quality of its products. This is a key factor in increasing the life span of products and thus reducing textile waste.

The brand does not offer a warranty service.

Repairing garments enables consumers to wear them longer and thus limits production of textile waste.

The brand does not offer a repair service.

Use of upcycled materials reduces textile waste by recovering production off-cuts.

Use of recycled materials reduces waste and disposal of textile off-cuts. Recycled materials come from different sources of waste (fabric scraps, used garments, plastic bottles, residual fibers...) and enable recovery of discarded or unused materials.

Unsold goods are a source of textile waste. Each year, between 10,000 and 20,000 tons of textile products are destroyed in France (the equivalent of one to two Eiffel Towers). Since January, 1st 2022, the french anti-waste bill obliges the textile companies to limit the disposal of textile products as much as possible.

The brand does not generate any unsold goods.

The brand has a strategy for minimizing its unsold inventory.

Frequent new releases of fashion collections promote over-consumption and over-production. This leads to more textile waste each year.

Frequency of collections

The brand distributes between 2 and 6 collections per year.

Substance testing checks the quantity of chemical substances present on the textile. This can be conducted during production; during the individual stages of production; after production; on the finished product; or during the transport and storage stages.

The brand does not conduct substance testing on its garments after production.

An unknown percentage of garments contains finished fabrics that are labeled OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100.
     The OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 label guarantees that labeled finished fabrics are tested for chemical substances during production.

Participating brand

Environment

Waste

Reduction of production waste

Recycled materials that repurpose waste

Upcycled materials that repurpose waste

Reduction of unsold goods

Recovery of unsold goods

Limited collection frequency

Repair service

Warranty service

Climate change

Reduction of CO2 emissions

Use of air transport prohibited

Recycled materials reducing carbon impact

Upcycled materials reducing carbon impact

Use of renewable energy

Suppliers managing their energy consumption

Water

Suppliers managing their water consumption

Use of sandblasting prohibited

Natural materials that limit water pollution

Organic materials that limit water pollution

Suppliers managing their water pollution

Use of chrome tanning prohibited

Fossil resources

Use of renewable resources

Recycled materials that limit depletion of resources

Upcycled materials that limit depletion of resources

Human

Relationships with partners

Knowledge of suppliers

Direct working relationships with suppliers

Long-term contracts with suppliers

Publication of list of suppliers

Risk management

Audits of suppliers on labor-related criteria

Publication of audit results

Alert system at suppliers' worksites

Consideration of workers' living conditions

Compliance with legal minimum wage for workers

Use of sandblasting prohibited

Use of chrome tanning prohibited

In addition

Guarantees of origin

Health

Checks and controls on the garment

Toxicity tests on components

Toxicity tests on finished products

Audits of suppliers on toxicity criteria

Publication of toxicity audit results

Substances used

Publication of the restricted substances list

Use of alkylphenols prohibited

Use of perfluorocarbons prohibited

Use of phthalates prohibited

Use of chromium VI prohibited

Use of halogenated flame retardants prohibited

In addition

Use of apparel fabric end-of-rolls

Animal

Controversial market

No animal material

No animal slaughter

No material causing animal slaughter

Limitation of suffering

No use of animal material

Production sites

Raw material

Spinning

Weaving-Knitting

Finishing

Sewing

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