Kookai

Brand website

Website of the label / certification / scoring / partnership

Brand CSR report

Supplier code of conduct

Reduction of production waste

Recycled materials that repurpose waste

Upcycled materials that repurpose waste

Reduction of unsold goods

Recovery of unsold goods

Limited collection frequency

Repair service

Warranty service

Reduction of CO2 emissions

Use of air transport prohibited

Recycled materials reducing carbon impact

Upcycled materials reducing carbon impact

Use of renewable energy

Suppliers managing their energy consumption

Suppliers managing their water consumption

Use of sandblasting prohibited

Natural materials that limit water pollution

Organic materials that limit water pollution

Suppliers managing their water pollution

Use of chrome tanning prohibited

Use of renewable resources

Recycled materials that limit depletion of resources

Upcycled materials that limit depletion of resources

By knowing its suppliers, the brand is able to control their practices and thus takes its responsibilities towards them.

Knowledge of suppliers

By working directly with its suppliers, i.e. without intermediaries, the brand has a transparent view of the working conditions in these factories.

Direct working relationships with suppliers

By committing to a minimum two-year contract with its suppliers, the brand gives them financial visibility and the ability to project themselves.

Long-term contracts with suppliers

Publication of list of suppliers

At all stages of the production chain, the working conditions are often very difficult for the workers. This is why it is important to control factories in order to verify their working conditions: forced labor, minimum age, measures against discrimination, workers’ safety. These controls, also called audits, can be carried out by external organizations or firms. They are thus a good guarantee that the minimum rights of workers are respected.

Audits of suppliers on labor-related criteria

Publication of audit results

Thanks to an anonymous alert and reporting system, workers can anonymously report problems in the factories.

Alert system at suppliers' worksites

Compliance with legal minimum wage for workers

By owning factories along its supply chain, the brand has a transparent view of and responsibility for the working conditions of the workers in these factories.

Ownership of factories

Publication of the restricted substances list

Use of alkylphenols prohibited

Use of perfluorocarbons prohibited

Use of phthalates prohibited

Use of chromium VI prohibited

Use of halogenated flame retardants prohibited

Use of upholstery fabric end-of-rolls

Use of apparel fabric end-of-rolls

Reuse of post-consumer fabrics

Absence of exotic leather

No fur

Use of leather requiring animal slaughter

Use of leather respecting animal welfare

Use of wool respecting animal welfare

Toxicity tests on components

Toxicity tests on finished products

Throughout the entire supply chain, workers may be exposed to numerous chemical substances or be required to manipulate them. Therefore, it is important to ensure that the conditions of use of these substances are respected and that they do not present risks to workers.

Audits of suppliers on toxicity criteria

Publication of toxicity audit results

Tshirt and top

Sweater

Coat and jacket

Trousers

Dress

Shorts

Skirt

Jeans

Jumpsuit

Accessory

The raw material production stage is the stage during which the fibers are produced, either by growing plants: natural plant fibers and artificial fibres, or by breeding: natural animal fibres, or by chemical processes: synthetics.

Raw material

The spinning stage is the stage during which the raw material is transformed into yarn.

Spinning

The sewing stage is the stage during which the fabric is cut and then assembled to give birth to the final garment.

Sewing

Dyeing is the process of imparting color to fabric by immersing it in a dye bath, allowing the fabric to absorb the dye and achieve the desired hue.Printing is the technique used to apply colors or patterns onto the fabric's  surface using various methods such as screen printing or digital printing, resulting in decorative designs or motifs that enhance the visual appeal of the fabric.

Dyeing/printing

The weaving/knitting stage is the stage during which the yarn is transformed into fabric. There are two types of fabrics: - the fabric which consists in assembling threads in a regular way, arranged in two series, by crossing them perpendicularly (ex: jeans) - the knitting which consists in making loops with the thread (ex: sweater)

Weaving/knitting

Controversial market

No animal slaughter

Limitation of suffering

Climate change

Water

Waste

Fossil resources

Checks and controls on the garment

Substances used

In addition

Relationships with partners

Risk management

Consideration of workers' living conditions

Frequent new releases of fashion collections promote over-consumption and over-production. This leads to more textile waste each year.

Frequency of collections

The brand distributes more than 12 collections per year.

Unsold goods are a source of textile waste. Each year, between 10,000 and 20,000 tons of textile products are destroyed in France (the equivalent of one to two Eiffel Towers). Since January, 1st 2022, the french anti-waste bill obliges the textile companies to limit the disposal of textile products as much as possible.

Production off-cuts result from cutting different pattern pieces from fabric, which generates a large amount of textile waste. Indeed, 20 to 30% of fabric is lost during the cutting process. To limit the quantity of cutting waste, it is possible to optimize cutting techniques or to repurpose production off-cuts.

Use of recycled materials reduces waste and disposal of textile off-cuts. Recycled materials come from different sources of waste (fabric scraps, used garments, plastic bottles, residual fibers...) and enable recovery of discarded or unused materials.

An unknown percentage of the brand's garments is produced from recycled materials.

Use of upcycled materials reduces textile waste by recovering production off-cuts.

An unknown percentage of the brand's garments is produced from upcycled materials.

During the manufacturing process, fabric is cut and assembled into the final garment, a process that uses little water.

Manufacturing

During the dyeing/printing process, the fabric is treated chemically or mechanically to give it its characteristics: color, motifs, etc. This process consumes a lot of water; it is responsible for 27% of freshwater consumption in the textile industry. A large majority of dyeing/printing processes require the use of freshwater.

Deying/printing

During the weaving or knitting process, the yarn is processed into fabric, which requires little water.

During the spinning process, the raw material is transformed into yarn, a process that consumes a lot of water. It is responsible for 21% of freshwater consumption in the textile industry. Some spinning processes are called "wet," meaning that they require the use of large quantities of water.

The production of raw materials consumes a lot of water. It is responsible for 31% of freshwater consumption in the textile industry, in particular in the cultivation of cotton, which is very water-intensive.

Raw materials

The technique of manual or mechanical sandblasting is very water-intensive. During the sandblasting process, sand is projected at high pressure using forced air guns.

With each wash, synthetic materials release microparticles of plastic that end up in the ocean. This represents 500,000 tons of microparticles released into the oceans each year, the equivalent of 50 billion plastic bottles.

%% of the brand's garments are produced solely from natural materials; the rest of the garments contain at least one synthetic material.

Natural materials, especially cotton, require a lot of fertilizers and pesticides. When used in excess, these chemicals leach into the water table and waterways, causing algae blooms and harming other aquatic life. Organic agriculture is a production method employing cultivation and breeding practices that respect the balance of natural habitats. It prohibits use of synthetic chemicals and GMOs and limits the use of agricultural inputs.

An unknown percentage of the brand's garments is produced from organically grown materials.

During manufacturing, the fabric is cut and assembled to create the final garment, a process that causes little water pollution.

The brand works with Manufacturing suppliers, some of whom have a policy of reducing water pollution generated by their activity.

During the dyeing/printing process, the fabric is treated chemically or mechanically to give it its characteristics: color, motifs, etc. This stage involves many processes and a large quantity of chemicals. These substances are found in factory wastewater. The substances used in the previous stages are also found in the wastewater and must be eliminated before any treatment.

During this process, the yarn is transformed into fabric, and yarns are often coated with chemicals to facilitate the transition from yarn to fabric. These chemicals can then end up in the wastewater of dyeing/printing plants.

During the spinning process, the raw material is transformed into yarn. Use of mineral oils is necessary for winding the yarn onto spools. These oils can contain traces of products that are very harmful to health and the environment. Residues of these oils can end up in the wastewater of dyeing/printing plants.

The manufacturing processes of synthetic and artificial materials require a large amount of chemical solvents. The cultivation of natural fibers, especially cotton, also requires use of large quantities of fertilizers and pesticides, all of which contribute to the pollution of groundwater and waterways.

Chromium is a toxic heavy metal that can be released into wastewater after the tanning process. Tanning is an operation that transforms the dermis of the animal's skin into a rot-proof substance.

The brand does not prohibit chrome tanning. However, an unknown percentage of its products are not tanned with chrome.

Every year the textile industry emits 1.2 billion tons of greenhouse gases, which is about 2% of global emissions. It is therefore important for brands to take action to reduce their emissions.

CO2 emissions

The brand has not reduced its carbon emissions.

Air transport is the most polluting mode of transport in terms of CO2 emissions per weight transported. According to the French Ministry of the Environment, a cargo ship emits between 10 and 32.5g of CO2/ton/kilometer vs. 2200g for an airplane.

The brand does not prohibit air transportation of its products.

The carbon impact of recycled materials is lower than that of virgin materials. Recycled materials come from different sources of waste (fabric scraps, used clothing, plastic bottles, residual fibers...) and therefore limit the production of virgin materials with a high carbon impact. This high carbon impact is the result of agricultural and breeding methods that use large surfaces of land and significant quantities of water, as well as massive use of chemical products and/or petroleum oil for the production of artificial and synthetic fibers.

Upcycling consists of repurposing used garments and fabrics to transform them into new pieces, without the production of new material or the stages of spinning, weaving/knitting and dyeing/printing that make up the production process. The carbon impact is therefore lower than that of virgin and recycled materials.

Renewable energies are inexhaustible energies. They contribute to the fight against the greenhouse effect and CO2 emissions into the atmosphere.

An unknown percentage of renewable energy is used by the brand to power its offices, warehouses and stores.

During the manufacturing process, fabric is cut and assembled to create the final garment, which requires little energy compared to the other stages.

During the dyeing/printing process, fabric is treated chemically or mechanically to give it its characteristics: color, motif, etc. This process requires significant electricity and especially heat. Most of the energy required is produced by non-renewable sources (coal, gas...).

Transformation of yarn into fabric requires significant energy. This energy is mostly produced by non-renewable sources (coal, gas...).

During the spinning process, the raw material is transformed into yarn, which requires significant energy. Most of the energy required is produced by non-renewable sources (coal, gas...).

The production of raw materials usually requires a large amount of energy and heat, especially for synthetic fibers.

70% of fibers produced in the world are synthetic, so derived from petroleum oil, a limited fossil resource. By opting for natural materials, the brand limits use of this resource.

%% of the brand's garments are produced from natural materials; the rest is produced from synthetic materials.

The use of recycled materials reduces the production of virgin materials. Recycled materials come from different sources of waste such as fabric scraps, used clothing, plastic bottles, residual fibers, etc. These materials, already produced and repurposed, limit use of the Earth's fossil resources like petroleum oil.

Upcycling consists of repurposing used garments and fabrics to transform them into new pieces. This reduces the production of virgin materials and thus limits use of the Earth's fossil resources like petroleum oil.

A garment guarantee proves that a brand has confidence in the quality of its products. This is a key factor in increasing the life span of products and thus reducing textile waste.

Repairing garments enables consumers to wear them longer and thus limits production of textile waste.

The brand does not offer a repair service.

The manufacturing process requires the work of many people. Machines do not replace human precision and experienced craftsmanship.

External audit: 
 %% of the brand's Manufacturing suppliers are audited on labor-related criteria by an external organization.

During the dyeing/printing process, workers may be exposed to large quantities of chemicals.

External audit: 
 An unknown percentage of the brand's dyeing/printing suppliers is audited on labor-related criteria by an external organization.

External audit: 
 An unknown percentage of the brand's weaving/knitting suppliers is audited on labor-related criteria by an external organization.

External audit: 
 An unknown percentage of the brand's spinning suppliers is audited on labor-related criteria by an external organization.

The cultivation of cotton poses many labor-related problems, such as forced labor and low wages.

External audit: 
 An unknown percentage of the brand's raw material suppliers is audited on labor-related criteria by an external organization.

At the end of the audits, the team responsible for conducting them completes a report to present the results and its observations. Publication of these results is a guarantee of transparency for the brand.

The brand has implemented an alert system with some of its Manufacturing suppliers.

%% of Manufacturing suppliers are known to the brand.

An unknown percentage of dyeing/printing suppliers is known to the brand.

An unknown percentage of weaving/knitting suppliers is known to the brand.

An unknown percentage of spinning suppliers is known to the brand.

An unknown percentage of the raw material suppliers is known to the brand.

Accessories

An unknown percentage of accessory suppliers is known to the brand. Accessories are all non-textile objects used in the production of garments. For example: zippers, buttons, rivets, snaps, fly closures...

By publishing the list of its suppliers, the brand demonstrates transparency to its consumers. This is also proof of its knowledge of its production chain.

%% of Manufacturing suppliers work directly with the brand.

An unknown percentage of dyeing/printing suppliers works directly with the brand.

An unknown percentage of weaving/knitting suppliers works directly with the brand.

An unknown percentage of spinning suppliers works directly with the brand.

An unknown percentage of raw material suppliers works directly with the brand.

The brand guarantees that workers in its Manufacturing factories are paid more than the legal minimum wage.

During the sandblasting process, sand is blasted at high pressure with forced-air guns. Workers who perform this process are exposed to silica dust that enters their bodies through their ears, noses and mouths. They can develop a disease called silicosis (an incurable lung disease) that can develop into cancer.

Chrome tanning uses many substances that are very harmful to workers. Tanning is an operation that transforms the dermis of the animal's skin into a rot-proof substance.

Prohibition of chrome tanning

The brand does not prohibit chrome tanning. However, an unknown percentage of its products is not tanned with chrome.

%% of the Manufacturing factories are owned by the brand.

The brand owns an unknown percentage of dyeing/printing factories.

The brand owns an unknown percentage of weaving/knitting factories.

The brand owns an unknown percentage of spinning factories.

The brand owns an unknown percentage of raw material factories.

Substance testing checks the quantity of chemical substances present on the textile. This can be conducted during production; during the individual stages of production; after production; on the finished product; or during the transport and storage stages.

By publishing the restricted substances list, the brand informs the consumer about substances that can be found in their garments. This is a guarantee of transparency.

Publication of list of restricted substances

Alkylphenols are chemicals used in the textile industry for cleaning and dyeing. Studies have shown the toxicological potential of alkylphenols mainly as endocrine disruptors in animals as well as humans.

Perfluorinated compounds are used to make a textile stain- or water-repellent. Studies have shown that they affect the liver and act as endocrine disruptors, altering growth levels and sex hormones.

Phthalates are chemical substances used in the textile industry to produced a relief effect. Studies have shown that the toxicity of phthalates is of great concern because they can interfere with the development of the testicles at an early age. The phthalates DEHP and DBP are classified as “toxic for reproduction” in Europe.

The exotic leather industry is responsible for the death of millions of animals each year in order to profit from the sale of their skins. We consider “exotic” all leathers that cannot be by-products of food (shark, snake, lizard, crocodile).

The fur industry is responsible for the death of millions of animals each year in order to profit from the sale of their pelts. The animals used for their furs are: minks, chinchillas, foxes, rabbits, and in some countries, cats and dogs.

Absence of fur

Leathers are prepared from the skins of cows, horses, sheep, goats and pigs. The animals are most often raised and slaughtered for the food industry and then the skins are used in the textile industry.

Leathers are a product of breeding cows, horses, sheep, goats and pigs. The breeding farms present a risk of mistreatment and suffering for the animals.

The brand uses leather. They have not replied to us regarding farm audits or visits intended to limit the risks of animal suffering.

Wool is made from the hair of animals like sheep, goats, etc. Animal breeding presents a risk of abuse and suffering for the animals.

The brand uses wool. They have not replied to us regarding farm audits or visits intended to limit the risks of animal suffering.

Halogenated or brominated flame retardants are chemicals used in the textile industry to prevent the formation of flames when garments come into contact with heat. Studies have shown that halogenated flame retardants affect the endocrine system and can induce changes in neurodevelopment and lipid metabolism.

Chromium is a chemical used in the textile industry for tanning leather and dyeing wool and silk. Chromium VI can form as a result of the use of chromium III by oxidation. Unlike other chromium derivatives, studies have shown carcinogenic effects of chromium VI on the respiratory tract when inhaled.

The brand practices upcycling. It recovers unused fabric to repurpose it into new garments. It is therefore more difficult to control the substances used and present on the fabric. Upholstery fabrics are chemically treated with halogenated flame retardants and perfluorinated stain-resistant compounds. They represent a health risk to consumers.

An unknown percentage of the brand's garments is produced from upholstery fabric end-of-rolls.

The brand practices upcycling. It recovers unused fabric to repurpose it into new garments. It is therefore more difficult to control the substances used and present on the fabric. Apparel fabrics can undergo various chemical treatments during their production. They can represent a health risk for consumers.

An unknown percentage of the brand's garments is produced from apparel fabric end-of-rolls.

The brand practices upcycling. It recovers unused fabric to repurpose it into new garments. It is therefore more difficult to control the substances used and present on the fabric. Post-consumer fabrics have been cleaned of chemicals that present a risk during their use phase.

Post-consumer fabrics

An unknown percentage of the brand's garments is produced from post-consumer fabrics.

Kookai

Environment

Social

Health

Animal

Production sites

Quality reviews about the brand Kookai

3,5/5

About the brand